4.5 Article

Sea waves and mass transport on a sloping beach

出版社

ROYAL SOC
DOI: 10.1098/rspa.2001.0958

关键词

waves; steady streaming; undertow; sloping beach

向作者/读者索取更多资源

The steady streaming induced by a sea wave shoaling on a sloping beach and partly reflected at the coastline is determined in the region seaward of the breaker line. Shallow waters and waves of small amplitude are considered. Moreover, the Reynolds number is assumed to be large but still within the laminar regime and the flow domain is split into a bottom boundary layer and a core region. For an incoming wave which is fully absorbed at the coast the solution shows that close to the bottom the steady streaming is onshore directed even though the depth-averaged value represents an offshore directed flow. Moreover, the vertical velocity distribution depends on the ratio between the wave amplitude alpha* and the thickness delta* of the bottom boundary layer. For a fully reflected wave, steady recirculation cells are induced, the form and strength of which depend on the ratio alpha*/delta*. A complex flow is generated for reflection coefficients falling between 0 and 1.

作者

我是这篇论文的作者
点击您的名字以认领此论文并将其添加到您的个人资料中。

评论

主要评分

4.5
评分不足

次要评分

新颖性
-
重要性
-
科学严谨性
-
评价这篇论文

推荐

暂无数据
暂无数据