Morphodynamic evolution of double-barred beaches

[ 1] The linear and nonlinear morphological behavior of double-barred coastal systems under the forcing of obliquely incident waves is studied using a nonlinear numerical model. The linearly most unstable bed forms consist of crescentic patterns ( rip channels), whose spacing depends on the magnitude of the longshore current velocity. Using the nonlinear model, six morphodynamic experiments have been performed with various initial bed perturbations in order to assess, among others, the influence of the initial bed perturbation on the morphodynamic evolution. The nonlinear experiments have been pursued well into the nonlinear regime, showing that after a phase of initial exponential growth, a highly dynamic behavior is observed and no equilibrium state is reached. The spacings predicted with the linear stability analysis are observed during the exponential phase of the nonlinear experiments. In the dynamic phase, however, four to seven modes significantly contribute to the resulting bed features. In this final stage, the apparent wavelength of 1000 m of the resulting bed forms on the inner bar is quite insensitive to the initial bed perturbation. On the outer bar it seems that the longer the wavelength of the initial bed perturbation, the longer the wavelength of the final bed forms in the dynamic phase and the larger the migration celerity. In general, the bed forms can be characterized as crescentic or undulating bed patterns. Good correspondence between simulated and observed spacings, shapes and migration celerities are found.