4.6 Article

Wave modelling in coastal and inner seas

期刊

PROGRESS IN OCEANOGRAPHY
卷 167, 期 -, 页码 164-233

出版社

PERGAMON-ELSEVIER SCIENCE LTD
DOI: 10.1016/j.pocean.2018.03.010

关键词

Water waves; Wave dynamics; Wind-wave interactions; Wave-current interactions; Wave forecasting; Wave measurements

资金

  1. EU [730030 call H2020-EO-2016]

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In the long term development of the research on wind waves and their modelling, in particular of the inner and coastal seas, the present situation is framed with a short look at the past, a critical analysis of the present capabilities and a foresight of where the field is likely to go. After a short introduction, Chapter 2 deals with the basic processes at work and their modelling aspects. Chapter 3 highlights the interaction with wind and currents. Chapter 4 stresses the need for a more complete, spectral, approach in data assimilation. Chapter 5 summarizes the situation with a discussion on the present status in wave modelling and a look at what we can expect in the future.

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