期刊
JOURNAL OF MARINE SCIENCE AND ENGINEERING
卷 7, 期 7, 页码 -出版社
MDPI
DOI: 10.3390/jmse7070205
关键词
combined field experiment and numerical modeling; overwash; wave run-up; infragravity waves; XBeach; coastal flooding; dune erosion
资金
- NWO Domain Applied and Engineering Sciences [B2]
- Dutch Ministry of Infrastructure and Water Management
- Deltares
- STOWA
- regional water authority, Noorderzijlvest
- regional water authority, Vechtstromen
- It Fryske Gea
- HKV consultants
- Natuurmonumenten
- waterboard HHNK
Wave run-up and dune overwash are typically assessed using empirical models developed for a specific range of often-simplistic conditions. Field experiments are essential in extending these formulae; yet obtaining comprehensive field data under extreme conditions is often challenging. Here, we use XBeach Surfbeat (XB-SB)-a shortwave-averaged but wave-group resolving numerical model-to complement a field campaign, with two main objectives: i) to assess the contribution of infragravity (IG) waves to washover development in a partially-sheltered area, with a highly complex bathymetry; and ii) to evaluate the unconventional nested-modeling approach that was applied. The analysis shows that gravity waves rapidly decrease across the embayment while IG waves are enhanced. Despite its exclusion of gravity-band swash, XB-SB is able to accurately reproduce both the large-scale hydrodynamics-wave heights and mean water levels across the 30 x 10 km embayment; and the local morphodynamics-steep post-storm dune profile and washover deposit. These findings show that the contribution of IG waves to dune overwash along the bay is significant and highlight the need for any method or model to consider IG waves when applied to similar environments. As many phase-averaged numerical models that are typically used for large-scale coastal applications exclude IG waves, XB-SB may prove to be a suitable alternative.
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