Glycolipid Biosurfactants, Mannosylerythritol Lipids: Distinctive Interfacial Properties and Applications in Cosmetic and Personal Care Products

Biosurfactants produced by a variety of microorganisms show attractive properties (e.g., higher surface activity and biodegradability, lower toxicity, and environmental compatibility) compared to chemically synthesized counterparts. The numerous advantages of biosurfactants have prompted their application to not only the food, cosmetic, and pharmaceutical industries, but agriculture and environmental protection disciplines as well. Among different types of biosurfactants, glycolipids are the most practically useful, due to their high product titers from renewable resources and versatile interfacial and biochemical properties. Mannosylerythritol lipids (MELs) are characteristic glycolipid biosurfactants that are produced by different yeast strains of the genus Pseudozyma. MELs exhibit different lyotropic liquid crystalline phases, such as sponge (L-3), reverse bicontinuous cubic (V-2), or lamellar (L-alpha) phases; and they have high levels of surface activity at very low concentrations. MELs also show excellent moisturizing effects on human skin and hair, with comparable performance to natural ceramides. Today, MELs are commercially produced by a Japanese company and their use is rapidly expanding around the world. In this review, we will briefly describe the current R&D status of glycolipid biosurfactants, with a focus on the interfacial properties of MELs and their applications in cosmetic and personal care products.

Automated summary

Biosurfactants, produced by microorganisms, have attractive properties compared to chemically synthesized counterparts, including higher surface activity, biodegradability, lower toxicity, and environmental compatibility. Glycolipids, especially mannosylerythritol lipids (MELs), are the most practically useful biosurfactants due to their high product titers from renewable resources and versatile interfacial properties. MELs exhibit different lyotropic liquid crystalline phases and have high surface activity at low concentrations. They also show excellent moisturizing effects on human skin and hair, comparable to natural ceramides. Currently, MELs are commercially produced and their use is expanding globally, particularly in cosmetic and personal care products.