Efficient Percutaneous Delivery of the Antimelanogenic Agent Glabridin Using Cationic Amphiphilic Chitosan Micelles

Partially myristoylated chitosan pyrrolidone carboxylate (PMCP) is a cationic amphiphilic chitosan derivative. Glabridin (Glab) from licorice root extracts is a hydrophobic antimelanogenic agent. Here we assessed the effects of cationic Glab-containing polymeric micelles derived from PMCP (Glab/PMCP-PM) on the ability of Glab to penetrate the skin and inhibit melanogenesis using a human skin model. The amount of Glab absorbed 24 h after the application of Glab/PMCP-PM was approximately four times higher than that of conventional oil-in-water micelles (control) prepared using Tween 60. Further, the release of IL-1 alpha, a mediator of inflammation, was not detected. Treatment with Glab/PMCP-PM significantly increased the inhibition of melanogenesis compared with control. The inhibition of melanogenesis depends upon the enhanced ability of Glab to penetrate the skin, particularly the epidermis. Moreover, the inhibition of melanogenesis and the cationic potential of the Glab/PMCP-PM levels were increased by the cationic phospholipid copolymer. Therefore, Glab/PMCP-PM shows potential as an effective transdermal delivery system for treating skin hyperpigmentation.