Wave-by-wave forecasts in directional seas using nonlinear dispersion corrections

We develop a new methodology for the deterministic forecasting of directional ocean surface waves based on nonlinear frequency corrections. These frequency corrections can be pre-computed based on measured energy density spectra and, therefore, come at no additional computational cost compared to linear theory. The nonlinear forecasting methodology is tested on highly nonlinear synthetically generated seas with a variety of values of average steepness and directional spreading and is shown to consistently outperform a linear forecast.

Automated summary

We have developed a new deterministic forecasting methodology for ocean surface waves using nonlinear frequency corrections. These corrections, pre-computed based on measured energy density spectra, do not require additional computational cost compared to linear theory. The methodology outperforms linear forecasts consistently, as demonstrated in testing with highly nonlinear synthetically generated seas of varying average steepness and directional spreading.