☆ 4.7 Article

Tide-modulated wave characteristics and breaking regimes in the intertidal zone of a dissipative beach

OCEAN ENGINEERING (2022)

相关参考文献

注意：仅列出部分参考文献，下载原文获取全部文献信息。

Article Engineering, Ocean

Numerical modelling of wave transformation and runup over rough fringing reefs using VARANS equations

Yu Yao et al.

Summary: In this study, a 3D numerical model based on a numerical wave tank was developed to investigate the interaction between waves and coral reef profiles. The model was validated through laboratory experiments and used to analyze the impacts of forcing conditions, reef morphology, and reef roughness on wave transformation and runup. An empirical formula for predicting wave runup was derived from the numerical results. The study also examined the cross-reef variations of energy dissipation, wave spectrum, wave shape parameters, nonlinearity parameter, TKE, and its dissipation rate for both smooth and rough reefs.

APPLIED OCEAN RESEARCH (2022)

添加到收藏夹

Article Geosciences, Multidisciplinary

Laboratory investigation on morphology response of submerged artificial sandbar and its impact on beach evolution under storm wave condition

Yuan Li et al.

Summary: The Submerged Artificial sandBar (SAB) is increasingly popular in coastal engineering applications for beach protection and restoration, but its morphological response to waves and impacts on beach evolution are not well understood. Experimental results show that SAB can alter beach state and berm behavior by triggering onshore sediment transport. The stability of SAB is influenced by factors such as seaward slope and water depth to bar height ratio, and a morphological coupling between SAB and berm is found with an empirical relationship proposed to quantify it.

MARINE GEOLOGY (2022)

添加到收藏夹

Article Environmental Sciences

Remote Sensing of Wave Overtopping on Dynamic Coastal Structures

Chris E. Blenkinsopp et al.

Summary: The development of coastal regions and rising sea levels have increased the risk of coastal flooding. Traditional methods for measuring wave overtopping are not suitable for dynamically stable coastal protection structures. This study explores the potential use of 2D laser scanners to remotely sense the flow volumes overtopping a porous dynamic revetment and proposes two analysis methods to estimate the overtopping volumes.

REMOTE SENSING (2022)

添加到收藏夹

Article Engineering, Ocean

Infragravity wave amplification by isolated topography: Field observations and semi-analytical modeling

Zhiling Liao et al.

Summary: Researchers have investigated the increase in energy flux of infragravity waves induced by shoals near Cape Canaveral. The results contribute to the understanding of nearshore hydrodynamics and can help mitigate coastal hazards.

APPLIED OCEAN RESEARCH (2022)

添加到收藏夹

Article Mechanics

Transient wave-induced pore-water-pressure and soil responses in a shallow unsaturated poroelastic seabed

Linlong Tong et al.

Summary: This article develops an analytical solution for studying transient water wave-induced responses inside an unsaturated poroelastic seabed of finite thickness. The analytical solutions obtained are suitable for general transient wave loading and the effects of wave-induced effective stresses on bed failure potential are analyzed. Sensitivity analyses are presented.

JOURNAL OF FLUID MECHANICS (2022)

添加到收藏夹

Article Oceanography

Cross-Shore Distribution of the Wave-Induced Circulation Over a Dissipative Beach Under Storm Wave Conditions

Marc Pezerat et al.

Summary: This study explores the spatial distribution and driving mechanisms of wave-induced cross-shore flow in a dissipative beach. The study finds that under storm wave conditions, the cross-shore flow is dominated by a strong seaward-directed current, extending up to 4 km offshore. Additionally, non-conservative wave forces and wave-enhanced mixing play a key role in controlling the cross-shore flow.

JOURNAL OF GEOPHYSICAL RESEARCH-OCEANS (2022)

添加到收藏夹

Article Engineering, Marine

Influence of artificial sandbar on nonlinear wave transformation: Experimental investigation and parameterizations

Yuan Li et al.

Summary: This paper presents experimental results of nonlinear wave transformation across a submerged artificial sandbar. The results show that the artificial sandbar intensifies wave shoaling processes and increases the magnitudes of wave nonlinearity. By considering bottom slopes, the prediction accuracy for wave nonlinearity is improved.

OCEAN ENGINEERING (2022)

添加到收藏夹

Article Engineering, Civil

An experimental study on the evolution of a submerged berm under the effects of regular waves in low-energy conditions

Y. Pan et al.

Summary: Reduced-scale mobile-bed flume tests were conducted to study the evolution of a submerged berm under low-energy conditions. The results showed that wave height had a significant impact on the evolution patterns of the submerged berm, and velocity skewness, wave height, and local water depth were the major factors affecting onshore sediment transport.

COASTAL ENGINEERING (2022)

添加到收藏夹

Article Engineering, Civil

Parametric modelling of nearshore wave reflection

Chi Zhang et al.

Summary: The study introduces a simple and efficient semi-empirical method to address the challenging issue of wave reflection in nearshore hydrodynamics, with promising predictability for various bathymetry configurations. By considering wave reflections resulted from both the underwater sloping bottom and the shoreline, the method provides a possible approach to simulate wave reflection with low computational demand and reasonable accuracy, and to include wave reflection influences in studying coastal processes on a broad range of time and spatial scales.

COASTAL ENGINEERING (2021)

添加到收藏夹

Article Engineering, Civil

Investigation on the effects of Bragg reflection on harbor oscillations

Junliang Gao et al.

Summary: This study simulated Bragg reflection and its interactions with the harbor, revealing that Bragg resonant reflection can significantly alleviate harbor resonance. The research also found that the number and amplitude of sinusoidal bars have remarkable influences on the mitigation effect of harbor resonance and on the optimal wavelength of sinusoidal bars that can achieve the best mitigation effect.

COASTAL ENGINEERING (2021)

添加到收藏夹

Article Meteorology & Atmospheric Sciences

Simulating storm waves in the nearshore area using spectral model: Current issues and a pragmatic solution

M. Pezerat et al.

Summary: This study evaluates four formulations of wave energy dissipation by depth-induced breaking using field observations and predictions from a third-generation spectral wave model. It reveals substantial over-dissipation of wave energy occurring over the continental shelf, and introduces a breaking coefficient dependent on the local bottom slope to reduce the negative bias and significantly improve the prediction of storm waves. The new parameterization of the breaking coefficient results in systematically increased predictions of wave setup near the shoreline compared to default parameterizations.

OCEAN MODELLING (2021)

添加到收藏夹

Article Engineering, Civil

Parameterization of nearshore wave breaker index

Chi Zhang et al.

Summary: The study reveals a composite dependence of the wave breaker index gamma on both offshore wave steepness and normalized local water depth, proposing a new gamma formula that significantly improves wave height prediction accuracy. There are two counteractive physical mechanisms at play, the breaking intensification mechanism and the breaking resistance mechanism, explaining the opposite relationships between gamma and water depth under different offshore wave steepness conditions.

COASTAL ENGINEERING (2021)

添加到收藏夹

Article Engineering, Marine

Wave Dissipation and Sediment Transport Patterns during Shoreface Nourishment towards Equilibrium

Yuan Li et al.

Summary: Implementing shoreface nourishment is an effective way to protect sandy beaches. Understanding the equilibrium mechanism of shoreface nourishments is crucial for coastal engineering designs. Experiments show that shoreface nourishment increases wave height locally and strengthens wave nonlinearity, with the most intense wave breaking dissipation occurring on the crest of the nourishment.

JOURNAL OF MARINE SCIENCE AND ENGINEERING (2021)

添加到收藏夹

Article Oceanography

Barred beach profile equilibrium investigated with a process-based numerical model

Yuan Li et al.

Summary: The study investigates the equilibrium profile of a sandy beach and provides detailed physical insights of hydrodynamics and sediment transport patterns on a quasi-equilibrium beach profile using a process-based model. It shows that both the magnitude and cross-shore gradient of sediment transport rate decrease during the transition to equilibrium, with the total net sediment transport in surfzone mainly affected by the balance between offshore-directed current-related suspended sediment transport and onshore-directed bedload transport. The study also proposes a dimensionless parameter representing the spatial uniformity of wave energy dissipation rate as an indicator of the equilibrium degree of a beach profile, suggesting a quantitative relationship between this parameter and the overall characteristics of sediment transport on a beach profile.

CONTINENTAL SHELF RESEARCH (2021)

添加到收藏夹

Article Mechanics

Field observation of wave overtopping at sea dike using shore-based video images

Shan-hang Chi et al.

Summary: The study observed wave overtopping at a sea dike using a shore-based video monitoring system during a storm in July 2018 in Rizhao Coast, China. A method to extract the frequency, location, width, and duration of individual overtopping events was developed, enabling a detailed analysis of the temporal and spatial variation of wave overtopping. The study found a significant correlation between wave height and overtopping frequency, as well as significant spatial variation of overtopping in the alongshore direction.

JOURNAL OF HYDRODYNAMICS (2021)

添加到收藏夹

Article Oceanography

An Analytical Spectral Model for Infragravity Waves over Topography in Intermediate and Shallow Water under Nonbreaking Conditions

Zhiling Liao et al.

Summary: The study introduces analytical solutions of group-forced infragravity waves in intermediate and shallow water, indicating that the non-equilibrium response in off-resonance conditions mainly results from the spatial variation of the equilibrium bound infragravity wave amplitude. In near-resonance conditions in shallow water, the equilibrium and non-equilibrium components are similar at the leading order. The theoretical predictions are in good agreement with experimental results and numerical model results.

JOURNAL OF PHYSICAL OCEANOGRAPHY (2021)

添加到收藏夹

Article Engineering, Civil

Physical and Numerical Modeling of Wave-by-Wave Overtopping along a Truncated Plane Beach

Muhammad S. I. Ibrahim et al.

Summary: This study compares experimental and numerical models of wave overtopping on fixed impermeable smooth beaches, showing varied performances of different models under different beach edge morphologies.

JOURNAL OF WATERWAY PORT COASTAL AND OCEAN ENGINEERING (2021)

添加到收藏夹

Article Mechanics

Evolution characteristics and quantization of wave period variation for breaking waves

Shu-xiu Liang et al.

JOURNAL OF HYDRODYNAMICS (2020)

添加到收藏夹

Article Oceanography

Energy Transfers and Reflection of Infragravity Waves at a Dissipative Beach Under Storm Waves

Xavier Bertin et al.

JOURNAL OF GEOPHYSICAL RESEARCH-OCEANS (2020)

添加到收藏夹

Article Engineering, Civil

Numerical investigation of harbor oscillations induced by focused transient wave groups

Junliang Gao et al.

COASTAL ENGINEERING (2020)

添加到收藏夹

Article Engineering, Marine

Modeling solitary wave transformation and run-up over fringing reefs with large bottom roughness

Yu Yao et al.

OCEAN ENGINEERING (2020)

添加到收藏夹

Review Geosciences, Multidisciplinary

Multiple intertidal bars on beaches: A review

M. Biausque et al.

EARTH-SCIENCE REVIEWS (2020)

添加到收藏夹

Article Oceanography

A method to nourished beach stability assessment: The case of China

Gen Liu et al.

OCEAN & COASTAL MANAGEMENT (2019)

添加到收藏夹

Article Engineering, Marine

A 39-year high resolution wave hindcast for the Chinese coast: Model validation and wave climate analysis

Jian Shi et al.

OCEAN ENGINEERING (2019)

添加到收藏夹

Article Engineering, Marine

Evolution of irregular wave shape over a fringing reef flat

Hongzhou Chen et al.

OCEAN ENGINEERING (2019)

添加到收藏夹

Article Engineering, Civil

Infragravity wave energy changes on a dissipative barred beach: A numerical study

Diogo Mendes et al.

COASTAL ENGINEERING (2018)

添加到收藏夹

Article Marine & Freshwater Biology

Variability of depth-limited waves in coral reef surf zones

Daniel L. Harris et al.

ESTUARINE COASTAL AND SHELF SCIENCE (2018)

添加到收藏夹

Article Engineering, Civil

Modeling wave effects on storm surge and coastal inundation

Guoxiang Wu et al.

COASTAL ENGINEERING (2018)

添加到收藏夹

Article Meteorology & Atmospheric Sciences

Assessing the performance of wave breaking parameterizations in shallow waters in spectral wave models

Shangfei Lin et al.

OCEAN MODELLING (2017)

添加到收藏夹

Article Engineering, Civil

A numerical investigation on nonlinear transformation of obliquely incident random waves on plane sloping bottoms

Yuxiang Ma et al.

COASTAL ENGINEERING (2017)

添加到收藏夹

Article Engineering, Civil

Parameterization of nearshore wave front slope

Chi Zhang et al.

COASTAL ENGINEERING (2017)

添加到收藏夹

Article Environmental Sciences

Impact of sea-level rise on cross-shore sediment transport on fetch-limited barrier reef island beaches under modal and cyclonic conditions

T. E. Baldock et al.

MARINE POLLUTION BULLETIN (2015)

添加到收藏夹

Article Meteorology & Atmospheric Sciences

Scaling depth-induced wave-breaking in two-dimensional spectral wave models

J. E. Salmon et al.

OCEAN MODELLING (2015)

添加到收藏夹

Article Engineering, Civil

Parameterization of nonlinear shallow water waves over sloping bottoms

Guohai Dong et al.

COASTAL ENGINEERING (2014)

添加到收藏夹

Article Engineering, Civil

SURF ZONE STATES AND ENERGY DISSIPATION REGIMES - A SIMILARITY MODEL

Hannah E. Power et al.

COASTAL ENGINEERING JOURNAL (2013)

添加到收藏夹

Article Engineering, Civil

On the parameterization of the free-stream non-linear wave orbital motion in nearshore morphodynamic models

B. G. Ruessink et al.

COASTAL ENGINEERING (2012)

添加到收藏夹

Article Engineering, Civil

Large-scale experiments on beach profile evolution and surf and swash zone sediment transport induced by long waves, wave groups and random waves

T. E. Baldock et al.

COASTAL ENGINEERING (2011)

添加到收藏夹

Article Oceanography

Modeling of depth-induced wave breaking under finite depth wave growth conditions

Andre J. van der Westhuysen

JOURNAL OF GEOPHYSICAL RESEARCH-OCEANS (2010)

添加到收藏夹

Article Oceanography

Nearshore wave height variation in unsaturated surf

H. E. Power et al.

JOURNAL OF GEOPHYSICAL RESEARCH-OCEANS (2010)

添加到收藏夹

Article Engineering, Civil

REANALYSIS OF REGULAR AND RANDOM BREAKING WAVE STATISTICS

Yoshimi Goda

COASTAL ENGINEERING JOURNAL (2010)

添加到收藏夹

Article Engineering, Civil

Experimental study of wave-wave nonlinear interactions using the wavelet-based bicoherence

Guohai Dong et al.

COASTAL ENGINEERING (2008)

添加到收藏夹

Article Engineering, Civil

Wave reflection from coastal structures in design conditions

Barbara Zanuttigh et al.

COASTAL ENGINEERING (2008)

添加到收藏夹

Article Engineering, Civil

Improved representation of breaking wave energy dissipation in parametric wave transformation models

J. M. Alsina et al.

COASTAL ENGINEERING (2007)

添加到收藏夹

Article Oceanography

Hydrokinematic regions within the swash zone

Michael G. Hughes et al.

CONTINENTAL SHELF RESEARCH (2007)

添加到收藏夹

Article Engineering, Civil

A note on wave energy dissipation over steep beaches

T. T. Janssen et al.

COASTAL ENGINEERING (2007)

添加到收藏夹

Article Engineering, Civil

Vertical flow structure during Sandy Duck: observations and modeling

AJHM Reniers et al.

COASTAL ENGINEERING (2004)

添加到收藏夹

Article Engineering, Civil

Calibration and verification of a parametric wave model on barred beaches

BG Ruessink et al.

COASTAL ENGINEERING (2003)

添加到收藏夹

Article Multidisciplinary Sciences

Wave-induced sediment transport and sandbar migration

F Hoefel et al.

SCIENCE (2003)

添加到收藏夹

© Peeref 2019-2024. All rights reserved.