Screening for New Cosmeceuticals from Brown Algae Fucus vesiculosus with Antioxidant and Photo-Protecting Properties

Phlorotannins play a role in biological functions to protect the cells against UV and oxidative damage in brown algae. We hypothesized that these compounds can function as photo-protectors and antioxidants in skin care formulations. Two types of extracts (water (FV-WE) and 67% v/v ethanol (FV-EE)) from Fucus vesiculosus were obtained with a phlorotannin content between 7-14% in dry extract. Exposure to sun light during growth was included as a factor on the phlorotannin content but did not influence the phlorotannin content. However, green colored F. vesiculosus had lower total phenolic content (TPC) (FV-WE = 6.9 g GAE 100 g(-1) dw, FV-EE = 7.8 g GAE 100 g(-1) dw) compared to those with a yellow/brownish color (FV-WE = 10.4-13.7 g GAE 100 g(-1) dw, FV-EE = 11.2-14.0 g GAE 100 g(-1) dw). UVA and UVB photo protective capabilities of the extracts through different biological effective protection factors (BEPFs) were evaluated using in vitro methods; the Mansur method for sun protection factor (SPF) and calculation of effective solar absorption radiation (%ESAR) to determine SPF and UVA protection factor (UVA-PF) of the extract and in seaweed enriched lotion. The SPF was negligible, when evaluating FV-WE in lotion (10 and 20% w/w). Moreover, %ESAR of the FV-WE showed SPF and some UVA-PF, but not enough to give sufficient SPF in lotions (10% w/w). It was concluded that the concentration of UV protecting compounds in the extracts was too low to and that further fractionation and purification of phlorotannins is needed to increase the SPF.

Automated summary

Phlorotannins in brown algae can function as photo-protectors and antioxidants in skin care formulations, but the current concentration of UV protecting compounds in the extracts is too low and needs further improvement.