Sui Generis Geographical Indications Fostering Localized Sustainable Fashion: A Cross-Industry Assessment

As interest in sustainable fashion and localism mounts, there is a compelling need to foster purchasers' trust in claims made by fashion businesses. Geographical indications (GIs) have proven successful not only in reducing consumers' search costs through reliable labels but also in safeguarding identity and heritage and delivering added value for agricultural products. Building on the EU Commission proposed Regulation to protect craft and industrial products that rely on the originality and authenticity of traditional practices from their regions and drawing on the fiber follows food adage, this paper puts forward policy recommendations related to the proposed expansion of GIs to the fashion industry. Through cross-sector and transdisciplinary explorative research, this article provides evidence on how the origin link could be framed to accommodate apparel and footwear items within the scope of protection of the EU sui generis GIs system despite their non-terroir character. Key drivers and barriers to harnessing GIs' potential and enhancing the sustainability of localized fashion production are further explored based on the theoretical insights and comparative practical experience extrapolated from qualitative interviews with GI-protected winemakers in Apulia. Ultimately, the paper increases the understanding of the economic, ecological, social, and governance implications, which need to be addressed to improve the sustainability impact of sui generis GI systems before expanding them to the apparel and footwear domain.

Automated summary

As interest in sustainable fashion and localism grows, this paper explores the potential of using geographical indications (GIs) to enhance trust in claims made by fashion businesses. Drawing on qualitative interviews with GI-protected winemakers in Apulia, the paper provides policy recommendations to expand GIs to the fashion industry, while considering the non-terroir nature of apparel and footwear items. The understanding of the economic, ecological, social, and governance implications of expanding GIs is vital to improve the sustainability impact of GIs systems.