Organoleptic quality of Ethiopian Arabica coffee deteriorates with increasing intensity of coffee forest management

Arabica coffee (Coffea arabica L.) grows naturally as an understory shrub in the moist evergreen montane forests of Southwest Ethiopia. In response to an increasing local human population pressure and a growing coffee demand on the world market, coffee producing forests are increasingly managed to boost coffee yield. Here we compared organoleptic coffee quality between natural coffee producing forests, large coffee agroforests, and small coffee agroforests. Accounting for variability in Arabica coffee genotype and environment, we found that blind consensus scores, given by a panel of certified Q-Grade cuppers, were negatively affected by increasing forest management intensity. Importantly, only coffee from natural coffee producing forests qualified as specialty coffee following the Specialty Coffee Association of America's standards. We suggest that the most important drivers of deteriorating coffee quality include decreased shade levels and changing micro-climate and biotic interactions. Due to the low yields of coffee in natural coffee producing forests and the lack of quality price premiums, Ethiopian smallholder farmers are inclined to optimize for coffee quantity, rather than for quality, causing a significant challenge for the conservation of Ethiopian natural coffee producing forests.