Influence of polyester fibre fineness and cross-sectional shape on low-stress characteristics of fabrics

The paper presents the results of the investigations made on 2/1 twill fabrics made from polyester and polyester-blended yarns to appreciate the role of constituent polyester fibre fineness and profiles in deciding their handle, appearance and performance in garment manufacturing operations. Three different polyester fibre profiles, trilobal, scalloped oval and tetrakelion, along with circular were chosen and linear density of circular fibre was varied for this investigation. The objective measurements were performed with Fabric Assurance by Simple Testing (FAST) system for evaluation of handle and tailoring performance by extracting information about deformations (i.e. compression, extensibility, bending and shear) in the fabrics. Fabrics' physical and mechanical parameters were shown to be altered by fibre form (fineness and cross-sectional shapes). Higher fibre denier leads to higher values of all four mechanical characteristics and results in higher formability. The influence of cross-section is very specific. Trilobal and tetrakelion, being stiffer and produce bulky yarn, resulting in stiffer fabrics with higher formability compared to their comparable circular fibre fabrics. Scalloped oval fibres, because of their less bending and torsion rigidities, produce fabric of low rigidity and formability but moderate compressibility and high extensibility. Mixing of polyester and viscose tends to reduce the stiffness (both bending and shear) but improves extensibility and formability.