4.5 Article

Wave run-up observations in microtidal, sediment-starved pocket beaches of the Eastern Mediterranean

期刊

JOURNAL OF MARINE SYSTEMS
卷 78, 期 -, 页码 S37-S47

出版社

ELSEVIER
DOI: 10.1016/j.jmarsys.2009.01.009

关键词

Wave run-up; Beach dynamics; Swash zone; Nearshore waves; Video imaging of waves; Image processing

向作者/读者索取更多资源

A video-based method was used to acquire wave run-up information from 3 microtidal, sediment-starved 'pocket' beaches on the island of Lesbos (Greece, NE Mediterranean). The results showed that the investigated beaches exhibit particular characteristics with regard to the wave run-up, compared to the sandy oceanic beaches previously studied. Run-up heights appeared to be characterised by similar frequencies to those of the nearshore waves (studied through the acquisition of high frequency wave data in the nearshore zone). Low frequency motions are introduced via the swash, but their contribution to the total run-up energy appeared to be less significant than in previous studies. Previously-proposed parameterisations were mostly found not to describe adequately the present data, whereas predictions based on previously-proposed expressions were also not satisfactory, with the possible exception of the expression of Stockdon et al. [Stockdon, H.F., Holman, R.A., Howd, P.A., Sallenger, J.A.H., 2006. Empirical parameterization of setup, swash, and runup. Coast. Eng., 53(7), 573-588], which has been obtained on the basis of extensive datasets from diverse beaches. (C) 2009 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

作者

我是这篇论文的作者
点击您的名字以认领此论文并将其添加到您的个人资料中。

评论

主要评分

4.5
评分不足

次要评分

新颖性
-
重要性
-
科学严谨性
-
评价这篇论文

推荐

暂无数据
暂无数据