4.7 Article

Field measurements and scaling of ocean surface wave-breaking statistics

Journal

GEOPHYSICAL RESEARCH LETTERS
Volume 40, Issue 12, Pages 3074-3079

Publisher

AMER GEOPHYSICAL UNION
DOI: 10.1002/grl.50584

Keywords

breaking waves; whitecap; infrared; upper ocean turbulence; dissipation; stereo

Funding

  1. Office of Naval Research (HiRes and RaDyO DRIs)
  2. National Science Foundation (Physical Oceanography)
  3. Division Of Ocean Sciences
  4. Directorate For Geosciences [0927428, 1155403] Funding Source: National Science Foundation

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[1] Deep-water breaking waves provide a mechanism for mass, momentum, and energy transfer between the atmosphere and ocean. Microscale breaking is particularly important, but notoriously difficult to measure in the field. In this paper, measurements from a new technique, using a stereo pair of long-wave infrared cameras to reconstruct the sea surface shape and velocity field, are presented. Breakers are detected using an image texture-based algorithm and then tracked on the reconstructed surface. These waves range from large air-entraining breakers to microbreakers that are undetectable by traditional visible video-based techniques. This allows measurements of breaker length distributions, (c), that extend to velocities near the gravity-capillary transition. These distributions are compared with measurements from the literature and from visible video imagery. A nondimensional scaling is proposed which collapses (c). Finally, estimates of energy dissipation and stress based on (c) are found to agree well with wave energy dissipation and wind stress models.

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