Journal
GEOPHYSICAL RESEARCH LETTERS
Volume 40, Issue 12, Pages 3138-3143Publisher
AMER GEOPHYSICAL UNION
DOI: 10.1002/grl.50637
Keywords
wave run-up; long waves; Serre-Green-Naghdi equation
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Funding
- ERC [ERC-2011-AdG 290562-MULTIWAVE]
- SFI [SFI/12/ERC/E2227]
- SFI/HEA Irish Centre for High-End Computing (ICHEC)
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Wave impact and runup onto vertical obstacles are among the most important phenomena which must be taken into account in the design of coastal structures. From linear wave theory, we know that the wave amplitude on a vertical wall is twice the incident wave amplitude with weakly nonlinear theories bringing small corrections to this result. In this present study, however, we show that certain simple wave groups may produce much higher runups than previously predicted, with particular incident wave frequencies resulting in runup heights exceeding the initial wave amplitude by a factor of 5, suggesting that the notion of the design wave used in coastal structure design may need to be revisited. The results presented in this study can be considered as a note of caution for practitioners, on one side, and as a challenging novel material for theoreticians who work in the field of extreme wave-coastal structure interaction.
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