Journal
JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE INSTITUTE
Volume 107, Issue 5, Pages 562-577Publisher
TAYLOR & FRANCIS LTD
DOI: 10.1080/00405000.2015.1046310
Keywords
knitting structure; objective testing; cashmere; superfine merino wool; fabric design; low crimp/high crimp wool; next-to-skin
Categories
Funding
- CRC for Sheep Industry Innovation Ltd
- Rural Industries Research and Development Corporation
- Victorian Department of Primary Industries
Ask authors/readers for more resources
The handle properties of single jersey fabrics composed of superfine wools (17 mu m) of different fibre curvature (114 vs. 74 degrees/mm) in blends with cashmere (fibre curvature 49 degrees/mm) were investigated. There were four blend ratios of cashmere (0, 25, 50, 75%) plus 100% cashmere. Each of the nine fibre blend combinations were replicated three times, and each was knitted into three tightness factors. The 81 fabrics were evaluated using the Wool HandleMeter, which measures seven primary handle attributes and Overall handle, and have been calibrated using a panel of experts and a wide variety of commercial fabrics. Results were analysed by ANOVA and general linear modelling. Tightness factor significantly affected all Wool HandleMeter attribute values, with the effect of tightness factor varying according to handle attribute. The Wool HandleMeter was able to detect differences between fabrics composed of superfine wool differing in fibre curvature, with lower fibre curvature wool fabrics having more preferred Overall handle and softer, looser, cooler, lighter and less dry handle attributes at some or all tightness factors compared with fabrics composed of higher fibre curvature superfine wool. Progressively blending cashmere with wool significantly improved Overall handle, increased soft and smooth handle, reduced dry, heavy and tight handle. Linear regression modelling indicated that fabric mass per unit area explained more than 50% of the variance in overall fabric handle and in combination with variations in fabric thickness and yarn elongation could explain 71% of the variance in Overall handle.
Authors
I am an author on this paper
Click your name to claim this paper and add it to your profile.
Reviews
Recommended
No Data Available