4.6 Article

Study of wave runup using numerical models and low-altitude aerial photogrammetry: A tool for coastal management

Journal

ESTUARINE COASTAL AND SHELF SCIENCE
Volume 149, Issue -, Pages 160-167

Publisher

ACADEMIC PRESS LTD- ELSEVIER SCIENCE LTD
DOI: 10.1016/j.ecss.2014.08.012

Keywords

beach monitoring; UAV; drone; CSHORE; runup; MIKE21

Funding

  1. PO CRO European Social Fund, Regione Liguria Asse IV Capitale Umano/Human Capital
  2. German Excellence Initiative
  3. ZMT, the Leibniz Center for Tropical Marine Ecology
  4. Italian Hydrographic Institute [IIM Prot.SRE 1653]
  5. PLIOMAX project [NSF OCE-1202632]

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Monitoring the impact of sea storms on coastal areas is fundamental to study beach evolution and the vulnerability of low-lying coasts to erosion and flooding. Modelling wave runup on a beach is possible, but it requires accurate topographic data and model tuning, that can be done comparing observed and modeled runup. In this study we collected aerial photos using an Unmanned Aerial Vehicle after two different swells on the same study area. We merged the point cloud obtained with photogrammetry with multibeam data, in order to obtain a complete beach topography. Then, on each set of rectified and georeferenced UAV orthophotos, we identified the maximum wave runup for both events recognizing the wet area left by the waves. We then used our topography and numerical models to simulate the wave runup and compare the model results to observed values during the two events. Our results highlight the potential of the methodology presented, which integrates UAV platforms, photogrammetry and Geographic Information Systems to provide faster and cheaper information on beach topography and geomorphology compared with traditional techniques without losing in accuracy. We use the results obtained from this technique as a topographic base for a model that calculates runup for the two swells. The observed and modeled runups are consistent, and open new directions for future research. (C) 2014 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

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