Journal
CONTINENTAL SHELF RESEARCH
Volume 29, Issue 3, Pages 676-690Publisher
PERGAMON-ELSEVIER SCIENCE LTD
DOI: 10.1016/j.csr.2008.09.013
Keywords
Wave attenuation; Wave damping; Wave dissipation; Wave spectra; Wave hindcasting; Wave predicting; SWAN; Wave analysis; Wave model; Mud; Rheology (Brazil Rio Grande do Sol Cassino Beach); <(53 degrees W, 32 degrees S) (52 degrees W, 33 degrees S)>
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The impact of a non-rigid seafloor on the wave climate at Cassino Beach, Brazil, May-June 2005 is studied using field measurements and a numerical wave model. The measurements consist of wave data at four locations: rheology and mud thickness from grab samples; and an estimate of the horizontal distribution of mud based on echo-soundings. The dissipation of waves by a non-rigid bottom is represented in the wave model by treating the mud layer as a viscous fluid. Applied for 431 time periods, the model without this type of dissipation has a strong tendency to overpredict nearshore wave energy, except during a period of large storm waves. Two model variations which include this dissipation have a modest tendency to underpredict the nearshore wave energy. An inversion methodology is developed and applied to infer an alternate mud distribution which, when used with the wave model, yields the observed waveheights. Published by Elsevier Ltd.
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