Journal
CHEMICAL SOCIETY REVIEWS
Volume 33, Issue 6, Pages 329-336Publisher
ROYAL SOC CHEMISTRY
DOI: 10.1039/b305697j
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The sources and structures of dyes used to colour Western historical textiles are described in this tutorial review. Most blue and purple colours were derived from indigo - obtained either from woad or from the indigo plant - though some other sources ( e. g. shellfish and lichens) were used. Reds were often anthraquinone derivatives obtained from plants or insects. Yellows were almost always flavonoid derivatives obtained from a variety of plant species. Most other colours were produced by over-dyeing - e. g. greens were obtained by over-dyeing a blue with a yellow dye. Direct analysis of dyes isolated from artefacts allows comparison with the historical record.
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