Journal
OCEAN ENGINEERING
Volume 27, Issue 2, Pages 187-201Publisher
PERGAMON-ELSEVIER SCIENCE LTD
DOI: 10.1016/S0029-8018(98)00048-1
Keywords
waves; propagation; breaking; partial differential equations; Riemman invariants; singularity
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In this paper we study the breaking of long waves propagating along an open channel with linear friction on the bottom. The equations governing the wave propagation consist of a pair of first-order nonlinear hyperbolic partial differential equations (PDEs). We first transformed the PDEs into a pair of ordinary differential equations (ODEs) along the characteristic directions by means of a pair of Riemann invariants. By analyzing the ODEs, we found that the breaking of waves can be identified by the singularity of the derivative of the Riemann invariants. Thus, we derived an analytical solution for the derivative of the Riemann invariants. Then, a breaking criterion and an analytical formula for the estimation of breaking time were developed and validated through numerical experiments. It is also shown in the paper that the present model includes the previous model neglecting bottom friction as a special case. (C) 1999 Elsevier Science Ltd. All rights reserved.
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