Journal
JOURNAL OF WATERWAY PORT COASTAL AND OCEAN ENGINEERING
Volume 127, Issue 3, Pages 176-184Publisher
ASCE-AMER SOC CIVIL ENGINEERS
DOI: 10.1061/(ASCE)0733-950X(2001)127:3(176)
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Coastal inlets pose challenges of complex bathymetry, wave-current interaction, and influences of natural and artificial. barriers for prediction of wave transformation with numerical wave models. The steady-state spectral WAVE model. is described and evaluated with directional wave data measured during two storms (5.4 m and 2.4 m peak wave height) at Pence de Leon Inlet, on the Atlantic coast of Florida. Model simulations of the two storms agreed well with measurements (within measurement uncertainty) except when incident waves were strongly nonlinear. Wave-current interaction was found to be a small influence compared to refraction by changing water depth.
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