Influence of different ceramides on the structure of in vitro model lipid systems of the stratum corneum lipid matrix

Human stratum corneum (SC) consists of several layers of keratinized corneocytes embedded in a lipid matrix of ordered lamellar structure which is considered to constitute the major barrier to percutaneous penetration. Artificial mixtures of SC lipids are often used as model systems to mimic the skin barrier or to investigate the effects of substances on the phase behaviour of the models. In the present study a SC lipid model composed of cholesterol, fatty acids and ceramides was used to investigate the effect of three different commercially available ceramide types on the microstructure and the physicochemical behaviour of the lipids. Polarized light microscopy, transmission electron microscopy, small-angle X-ray diffraction. wide-angle X-ray diffraction and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) were used for physicochemical characterization. The results revealed a lamellar structure for all models but showed differences with regard to the thermal and optical behaviour depending obviously on the composition of the ceramide mixtures. A model containing a mixture of Cer[AS] was comparable to human SC lipids. (C) 2002 Elsevier Science Ireland Ltd. All rights reserved.