Journal
JOURNAL OF FLUID MECHANICS
Volume 547, Issue -, Pages 361-388Publisher
CAMBRIDGE UNIV PRESS
DOI: 10.1017/S0022112005007317
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Simulations in a three-dimensional numerical wave tank are performed to investigate the shoaling and breaking of solitary waves over a sloping ridge. The numerical model solves fully nonlinear potential flow equations with a high-order boundary-element method combined with an explicit time-integration method, expressed in a mixed Eulerian-Lagrangian formulation. Analyses of shoaling and breaking-wave profiles and kinematics (both on the free surface and within the flow) are carried Out. It is observed that the transverse modulation of the ridge topography induces three-dimensional effects on the time evolution, shape and kinematics of breaking waves. Comparisons of two- and three-dimensional results in the middle cross-section of the ridge, however, show remarkable similarities, especially for the shape and dynamics of the plunging jet.
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