Journal
DRYING TECHNOLOGY
Volume 37, Issue 8, Pages 950-961Publisher
TAYLOR & FRANCIS INC
DOI: 10.1080/07373937.2018.1480493
Keywords
Microencapsulation; caffeic acid; ethylcellulose; octanol; in vitro release; cosmetics; double emulsion; formulation parameters; release kinetics
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Funding
- Laboratory for Process Engineering, Environment, Biotechnology, and Energy - European Regional Development Fund (ERDF), through COMPETE2020 - Programa Operacional Competitividade e Internacionalizacao (POCI) by national funds, through FCT - Fundacao Cienci [POCI-01-0145-FEDER-006939, UID/EQU/00511/2013]
- North Portugal Regional Operational Programme (NORTE 2020), under the Portugal 2020 Partnership Agreement, through the European Regional Development Fund (ERDF) [NORTE-01-0145-FEDER-000005 - LEPABE-2-ECO-INNOVATION]
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Caffeic acid (CAF)has numerous health benefits mainly due to its antioxidant, antibacterial and fungicide properties. However, its incorporation in skin care products as anti-aging and the photoprotective agent is still limited due to its solubility and stability in oily matrices or solutions balanced with the skin pH. In this research, CAF-ethyl cellulose (EC) microparticles were produced by water-in-oil-water double emulsion solvent evaporation encapsulation technique using a biocompatible polymer, EC, as a coating material and a surfactant, polyvinyl alcohol, as a stabilizer of the double emulsion. The study assessed the influence of formulation parameters as the solubility of the polymer in organic solvents and the polymer concentration on microparticles final characteristics. CAF-EC microparticles were characterized by product yield, encapsulation efficiency, mean particle size, particle size distribution and polydispersity and imaged by scanning light microscopy. In vitro release profiles were obtained in water and octanol to mimic oily based and water-based matrices balanced with the skin pH. In vitro release kinetics studies were carried out to investigate the release pattern of CAF in simulated cosmetic formulations. Both the product yield and the encapsulation efficiency were found to be dependent on the solubility of the polymer in the organic phase. The product yield was mainly affected by operational factors such as the sticking and the agglomeration of the polymer to the walls and the magnet stirring during microparticles hardening and results from the encapsulation efficiency revealed that an increase of the polymer concentration led to an increase of the encapsulation efficiency. The usage of a water-soluble solvent contributed to a decrease in the mean particle size and reduction of polydispersity with higher polymer concentrations. The polymer concentration, the polymer solubility in the organic phase and the amount of CAF entrapped shown to affect the release in water, whereas the release in octanol was mainly independent of the amount of CAF entrapped in EC microparticles. The double emulsion solvent evaporation technique and the assessment of the selected formulation conditions have given significant and innovative insights on the microencapsulation of bioactive ingredients for cosmetics formulations. [GRAPHICS] .
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