Journal
COASTAL ENGINEERING
Volume 138, Issue -, Pages 113-125Publisher
ELSEVIER SCIENCE BV
DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2018.04.009
Keywords
Wave-induced setup; Wave-driven flow; Lagoon; rip channel; Analytical model; Wave-flume
Categories
Funding
- National Natural Science Foundation of China [51679014, 51309035]
- Hunan Science and Technology Plan Program [2017RS3035]
- Open Foundation of Key Laboratory of Coastal Disasters and Defense of Ministry of Education [201602]
- Open Foundation of Key Laboratory of Port, Waterway and Sedimentation Engineering of the Ministry of Transport [Yn216002]
- Singapore-Stanford Partnership (SSP) program at Nanyang Technological University
- School of Ocean and Earth Science and Technology (SOEST), University of Hawaii at Manoa (UH Manoa)
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The primary action of near-shore waves at many field reef sites is to produce a wave-induced setup and 2DH reef lagoon -channel circulation cells. Instead of using wave basin to study the behaviors of the wave-induced setup and wave-driven flow in such systems, an experimental technique was introduced to achieve the same objective through wave-flume tests. A pipe with a valve was installed underneath the wave flume to connect the lagoon and the ocean side, which makes it possible to simulate a rip channel connecting the lagoon and the offshore side. Experimental results for two reef systems with a fore-reef slope (1V:6H) were obtained under a series of monochromatic wave conditions: one simulating a dosed lagoon and the other simulating an open lagoon. Compared with the reef system with a closed lagoon, connecting the lagoon to the ocean side was found to have the following effects: (i) producing a wave-driven current on the reef flat, (ii) reducing the maximum wave setup on the reef flat by 10%-40%, and (iii) causing the wave setup to decrease continuously along the reef flat all the way to the lagoon. For the reef system with an open lagoon, the wave-driven current was found to increase with increasing wave height and wave period, and there appeared to be a peak value of the current within the tested range of reef-flat submergences. The experimental results for the two reef systems were compared with a set of existing wave-basin results for similar reef systems, but with a much steeper fore-reef slope (1V:1H). The dimensionless parameters used in the literature were found to be insufficient to describe both the wave setup and wave-driven current on the reef flat for the reef system with an open lagoon. A semi-analytical quasi-2DH model, which was devised according to the balances of momentum and mass, was also included to understand how the reef and channel morphology and the bottom roughness affect the wave setup and wave-driven current in a reef lagoon -channel system. The semi-analytical model was validated by our laboratory data as well as field observations reported in the literature.
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