Journal
INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
Volume 40, Issue 1, Pages 16-30Publisher
WILEY
DOI: 10.1111/ics.12439
Keywords
claim substantiation in vivo; in vitro; formulation; hair plus body care; polymers; surfactants
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Surfactants form the core of all shampoo formulations, and contribute to a wide range of different benefits, including cleansing, foaming, rheology control, skin mildness and the deposition of benefit agents to the hair and scalp. The purpose of this review was to assist the design of effective, modern, shampoo surfactant technologies. The mechanisms through which surfactants help deliver their effects are presented, along with the appraisal techniques through which surfactant options can be tested and screened for product development. The steps that should be taken to select the most appropriate blend of surfactants are described, and useful information on the most widely used surfactants is provided. The review concludes with an examination of recent developments in 'greener' surfactants, 'sulphate-free' technologies and structured liquid phases for novel sensory properties and for suspending benefit agents.
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