4.7 Article

On dispersion of directional surface gravity waves

Journal

JOURNAL OF FLUID MECHANICS
Volume 812, Issue -, Pages 681-697

Publisher

CAMBRIDGE UNIV PRESS
DOI: 10.1017/jfm.2016.817

Keywords

surface gravity waves; waves/free-surface flows

Funding

  1. University of Oslo
  2. Research Council of Norway [214556/F20]

Ask authors/readers for more resources

Using a nonlinear evolution equation we examine the dependence of the dispersion of directional surface gravity waves on the Benjamin Feir index (BFI) and crest length. A parameter for describing the deviation between the dispersion of simulated waves and the theoretical linear dispersion relation is proposed. We find that for short crests the magnitude of the deviation parameter is low while for long crests the magnitude is high and depends on the BUI. In the present paper we also consider laboratory data of directional waves from the Marine Research Institute of the Netherlands (MARIN). The MARIN data confirm the simulations for three cases of BFI and crest length.

Authors

I am an author on this paper
Click your name to claim this paper and add it to your profile.

Reviews

Primary Rating

4.7
Not enough ratings

Secondary Ratings

Novelty
-
Significance
-
Scientific rigor
-
Rate this paper

Recommended

No Data Available
No Data Available