Journal
JOURNAL OF FLUID MECHANICS
Volume 833, Issue -, Pages 399-429Publisher
CAMBRIDGE UNIV PRESS
DOI: 10.1017/jfm.2017.666
Keywords
coastal engineering; ocean processes; waves/free-surface flows
Categories
Funding
- BOND [ANR-13-BS01-0009-01]
- DYFICOLTI [ANR-13-BS01-0003-01]
- COASTVAR [ANR-14-ASTR-0019]
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The reconstruction of water wave elevation from bottom pressure measurements is an important issue for coastal applications, but corresponds to a difficult mathematical problem. In this paper we present the derivation of a method which allows the elevation reconstruction of water waves in intermediate and shallow waters. From comparisons with numerical Euler solutions and wave-tank experiments we show that our nonlinear method provides much better results for the surface elevation reconstruction compared to the linear transfer function approach commonly used in coastal applications. More specifically, our method accurately reproduces the peaked and skewed shape of nonlinear wave fields. Therefore, it is particularly relevant for applications on extreme waves and wave-induced sediment transport.
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