4.4 Article

Spectral Wave Characteristics in the Nearshore Waters of Northwestern Bay of Bengal

Journal

PURE AND APPLIED GEOPHYSICS
Volume 175, Issue 8, Pages 3111-3136

Publisher

SPRINGER BASEL AG
DOI: 10.1007/s00024-018-1838-5

Keywords

Surface waves; multi-peaked spectra; wind-seas; swells; directional waves spectra; east coast of India

Funding

  1. Council of Scientific and Industrial Research, New Delhi
  2. Earth System Science Organization, Ministry of Earth Sciences, Government of India

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The spectral wave characteristics in the nearshore waters of northwestern Bay of Bengal are presented based on the buoy-measured data from February 2013 to December 2015 off Gopalpur at 15-m water depth. The mean seasonal significant wave height and mean wave period indicate that the occurrence of higher wave heights and wave periods is during the southwest monsoon period (June-September). 74% of the sea surface height variance in a year is a result of waves from 138 to 228A degrees and 16% are from 48 to 138A degrees. Strong inter-annual variability is observed in the monthly average wave parameters due to the occurrence of tropical cyclones. Due to the influence of the tropical cyclone Phailin, maximum significant wave height of 6.7 m is observed on 12 October 2013 and that due to tropical cyclone Hudhud whose track is 250 southwest of the study location is 5.84 m on 12 October 2014. Analysis revealed that a single tropical cyclone influenced the annual maximum significant wave height and not the annual average value which is almost same ( 1 m) in 2014 and 2015. The waves in the northwestern Bay of Bengal are influenced by the southwest and northeast monsoons, southern ocean swells and cyclones.

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