4.7 Article

A guide for selecting periodic water wave theories- Le Méhauté (1976)'s graph revisited

Journal

COASTAL ENGINEERING
Volume 188, Issue -, Pages -

Publisher

ELSEVIER
DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2023.104432

Keywords

Stokes wave; Regular wave; Cnoidal wave; Relative water depth; Wave steepness; Ursell number

Ask authors/readers for more resources

This note provides guidelines for selecting appropriate analytical periodic water wave solutions based on two physical parameters. The guidelines are summarized in a graphic format and the dividing lines between applicable wave theories are determined by the nonlinearity and frequency dispersion ratios.
This note provides guidelines for selecting appropriate analytical periodic water wave solutions for applications, based on two physical parameters, namely, frequency dispersion parameter (water depth divided by wave-length) and the nonlinearity parameter (wave height divided by wavelength). The guidelines are summarized in a graphic format in the two-parameters space. The new graph can be viewed as the quantification of the well-known Le Mehaute (1976)'s graph with quantitative demarcations between applicable analytical periodic water wave solutions. In the deep water and intermediate water regimes the fifth-order Stokes wave theories (Zhao and Liu, 2022) are employed for the construction of the graph, while in the shallower water regime, Fenton (1999)'s higher order cnoidal wave theories are used. The dividing lines between the applicable ranges of Stokes wave and cnoidal wave theories are determined by the values of Ursell number, a ratio between the nonlinearity and frequency dispersion.

Authors

I am an author on this paper
Click your name to claim this paper and add it to your profile.

Reviews

Primary Rating

4.7
Not enough ratings

Secondary Ratings

Novelty
-
Significance
-
Scientific rigor
-
Rate this paper

Recommended

No Data Available
No Data Available