Influence of Excavation Pits on the Wave Hydrodynamics of Fringing Reefs under Regular Waves

Dredging materials from reef flats have become an important source of sand and aggregates for meeting the infrastructure needs of coral-lined shores in subtropical and tropical regions, especially for low-lying atoll islands. Dredging at the reef flats can generate artificial excavation pits, which not only have profound influences on coral ecological stability but also deeply affect the hydrodynamic characteristics of coral reefs. To deepen the understanding of the influence of excavation on the wave hydrodynamics of fringing reefs, the wave propagation, wave transformation, wave setup, and wave runup processes of regular waves on fringing reefs with artificial pits have been systematically analyzed using a non-hydrostatic numerical wave solver (NHWAVE). The effects of some significant factors have been carefully investigated. According to the study findings, the existence of artificial pits can result in a slight decrease in the wave height around the artificial pit. The time-mean maximum of wave runup height at the backreef slope can be reduced to some extent when the artificial pit is present. When placed close to the reef edge, the artificial pit can have noticeable effects on the hydrodynamic characteristics of fringing reefs, particularly the wave setup along the reef flat. It is hoped that the study findings can provide further reference for evaluation of the influences of artificial pits on the wave hydrodynamics of fringing reefs.

Automated summary

Dredging materials from reef flats is important for meeting the infrastructure needs of coral-lined shores, but it can have profound influences on coral ecological stability and the hydrodynamic characteristics of coral reefs. A study using a numerical wave solver analyzed the wave propagation, transformation, setup, and runup processes on fringing reefs with artificial pits. The presence of artificial pits can slightly decrease wave height and reduce wave runup at the backreef slope. When placed close to the reef edge, artificial pits can have noticeable effects on wave setup along the reef flat.