4.7 Article

Lycium barbarum ethanol extraction: Application as cosmetic product ingredients

Journal

INDUSTRIAL CROPS AND PRODUCTS
Volume 202, Issue -, Pages -

Publisher

ELSEVIER
DOI: 10.1016/j.indcrop.2023.117130

Keywords

Lycium barbarum; Cosmetic; In vitro antioxidant activities; Stability; Anti -aging

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Plant seed oils and extracts, such as Lycium barbarum, can be utilized in cosmetic formulations to provide skin benefits. This study optimized the biological activity and stability of Lycium barbarum seed oil (LBSO) in oil-in-water emulsions, and utilized Lycium barbarum fruit extract (LBE) as a functional ingredient. The LBE emulsion with 15% L. barbarum seed oil and 1% LBE showed the highest physical and storage stability.
Plant seed oils and extracts are widely used in cosmetic industry to provide the skin with a variety of benefits. Due to the paucity of bioactivity studies on Lycium barbarum and its skin care applications, Lycium barbarum seed oil (LBSO) was utilized to create stable oil-in-water emulsions, and Lycium barbarum fruit extract (LBE) was used as a functional ingredient in cosmetic formulations We optimized the biological activity, storage stability, and physicochemical properties of LBSO when added to O/W emulsions (antioxidant, anti-tyrosinase, and anti -aging). The LBE emulsion [15 % L. barbarum seed oil (F3) and 1 % LBE] showed the highest physical and storage stability (pH 6.02). TPC and TFC had respective values of 2.146 & PLUSMN; 0.013 mg Gallic acid equivalent (GAE)/g and 1.099 & PLUSMN; 0.012 mg Rutin equivalent (RE)/g. For anti-aging purposes, LBE emulsion could inhibit hyaluronidase (44.74 & PLUSMN; 2.05 %), elastase protease (26.59 & PLUSMN; 2.56 %), and melanogenesis (34.35 & PLUSMN; 1.77 %). Overall, our current findings speculate the development of anti-aging cosmetic products using L. barbarum.

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