4.7 Review

Current postbiotics in the cosmetic market-an update and development opportunities

Journal

APPLIED MICROBIOLOGY AND BIOTECHNOLOGY
Volume 106, Issue 18, Pages 5879-5891

Publisher

SPRINGER
DOI: 10.1007/s00253-022-12116-5

Keywords

Postbiotic(s); Probiotic(s); Cosmetic(s); Fermentation; Lactobacillus; Saccharomyces

Funding

  1. Amyris Bio Products Portugal Unipessoal Lda and Escola Superior de Biotecnologia-Universidade Catolica Portuguesa [POCI-01-0247-FEDER-027578]

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Postbiotics, derived from probiotics, are a new class of health-promoting molecules that offer benefits to the host. They are mainly obtained through fermentative processes and have diverse applications such as antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-proliferative, and immunomodulatory properties, making them an innovative approach within the cosmetic ingredients market.
Postbiotics are a new class of health-promoting molecules that derive from probiotics. These new cosmetic and dermatological ingredients are defined as a 'preparation of inanimate microorganisms and/or their components that confers a health benefit on the host'. This review focuses on what is presently known of these compounds, the benefits of using them, the main postbiotics products available in the market and players, the production key trends and available production methods. The main advantages identified for the use of postbiotics are related to their higher specificity of action on resident microbiota as of interaction with cells of the host compared to probiotics. Postbiotics can be produced/obtained especially through fermentative processes, but most of companies industrial processes are patented. Most of these compounds are usually derived from lactic acid bacteria, Lactobacillus genera and/or yeasts, especially Saccharomyces cerevisiae. Postbiotics go from metabolites like teichoic acids to polysaccharides among others and exhibit important biological properties such as antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-proliferative and immunomodulatory-the reason why their use in cosmetic formulations must be considered. Besides that, when compared to probiotics, postbiotics have longer shelf life and greater safety and do not require viability in the topical formulation which turns them into an innovative approach within the cosmetic ingredients market. The main players are companies that operate in several areas, such as the chemical industry, food innovation, pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries, and the critical trends for production of these compounds include energy efficiency, emission-free mobility, conservation of finite resources and renewable raw material utilization.

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