4.5 Article

Eco-Friendly Dyeing of Viscose Rayon Fabrics Using Anthocyanin from Hibiscus sabdariffa Linn

Journal

JOURNAL OF NATURAL FIBERS
Volume 19, Issue 16, Pages 13052-13062

Publisher

TAYLOR & FRANCIS INC
DOI: 10.1080/15440478.2022.2084659

Keywords

Natural dye; natural mordant; anthocyanin; color fastness; viscose rayon fabric

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This study investigates the feasibility of dyeing viscose rayon fabric using an anthocyanin solution extracted from H. sabdariffa L. calyces. Natural mordants, including walnut hull and alginate, were found to improve color strength and color fastness. The after-mordanting method resulted in the highest wash and light fastness. Overall, walnut husk mordant increased color strength and decreased lightness compared to other natural mordants in all three mordanting methods.
This paper investigates the feasibility of dyeing viscose rayon fabric with an anthocyanin solution extracted from H. sabdariffa L. calyces. For eco-friendly dyeing and improvement of the natural dye's affinity to fabrics, natural mordants instead of traditional metallic mordants were applied. The effect of natural mordant types and mordanting procedures (pre-, meta- and after-mordanting) was evaluated by colorimetric measurement (CIE Lab and K/S values) and color fastness. Four natural mordants including alginate, walnut hull, lemon peel, and pinecone were used. The results show that the light and wash fastness (1-2 degrees according to the blue scale and the grayscale) of the un-mordanted viscose fabric were very low and unsuitable. Natural mordants, especially walnut husk and alginate, could improve color strength and color fastness. The light fastness value of the dyed fabric was improved, reaching a value of 5-6 in the presence of walnut, lemon, and pinecone mordants. The highest wash and light fastness was obtained when the after-mordanting method was used. Also, the use of walnut husk mordant increased the color strength and decreased the lightness of the dyed fabrics, as compared to other natural mordants, in all three methods of mordanting.

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