Journal
ANNUAL REVIEW OF MARINE SCIENCE
Volume 15, Issue -, Pages 167-202Publisher
ANNUAL REVIEWS
DOI: 10.1146/annurev-marine-032122-115057
Keywords
nearshore; cross-shore exchange; particle behavior; turbulence; wind; surface waves; internal waves
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The exchange of material in the nearshore region, from the shoreline to a few kilometers offshore, plays a crucial role in determining the concentrations of pathogens and nutrients near the coast, as well as the transport of larvae. Various cross-shore exchange mechanisms, such as winds, currents, and waves, can influence this process. A framework has been developed to estimate the relative importance of these mechanisms and determine their impact on particle behavior.
Exchange of material across the nearshore region, extending from the shoreline to a few kilometers offshore, determines the concentrations of pathogens and nutrients near the coast and the transport of larvae, whose cross-shore positions influence dispersal and recruitment. Here, we describe a framework for estimating the relative importance of cross-shore exchange mechanisms, including winds, Stokes drift, rip currents, internal waves, and diurnal heating and cooling. For each mechanism, we define an exchange velocity as a function of environmental conditions. The exchange velocity applies for organisms that keep a particular depth due to swimming or buoyancy. A related exchange diffusivity quantifies horizontal spreading of particles without enough vertical swimming speed or buoyancy to counteract turbulent velocities. This framework provides a way to determine which processes are important for cross-shore exchange for a particular study site, time period, and particle behavior.
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