4.7 Article

Sensitivity of a one-line longshore shoreline change model to the mean wave direction

Journal

COASTAL ENGINEERING
Volume 172, Issue -, Pages -

Publisher

ELSEVIER
DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2021.104025

Keywords

Beach morphodynamics; One-line model; Longshore transport; Shoreline change; Sensitivity analysis; Wave angle bias

Funding

  1. Agence de l'Innovation de Defense (AID) program of the Direction Generale de l'Armement (DGA)
  2. Cerema
  3. Ecole des Ponts ParisTech

Ask authors/readers for more resources

The sensitivity of a one-line longshore shoreline change model to incident wave direction was evaluated, with corrections made to accurately reproduce shoreline planform shape by adjusting wave angle bias. The study also investigated the model's sensitivity to errors in mean wave direction, highlighting the importance of considering uncertainties in wave model estimates when simulating longshore coastline changes.
The sensitivity of a one-line longshore shoreline change model to the incident wave direction is evaluated at Narrabeen Beach (Australia). As previously observed, the application of the one-line model using wave conditions generated along the 10-m depth contour produces a long-term reorientation of the coastline, with an initial transition period and then a new stable equilibrium during the 10-year period from 2005 to 2015. However, this coastline change in shoreline planform shape is not observed in the shoreline position measurements. The source of this error is investigated by assuming that it is caused by biases in the incident wave direction and by using a Monte Carlo approach to search for the optimal set of wave angle bias corrections to apply at each cross-shore transect. The obtained optimal values enable the one-line model to reproduce accurately the shoreline planform, and they are coherent with estimates of the wave breaking angle obtained independently using a nearshore wave propagation model. Then, using the corrected wave angle time series as a reference, a second Monte Carlo analysis is completed to investigate the sensitivity of the model to errors in the mean wave direction drawn from Gaussian distributions with varying standard deviations. The analysis shows the range of expected errors in shoreline position for an estimated range of errors in the mean wave direction at Narrabeen beach. This work highlights the importance of considering the sensitivity of one-line longshore model simulations to errors in the incident wave angle, which can be relatively large given the uncertainties in spectral wave model estimates of wave direction, in wave buoy observations, and in wave propagation methods or input bathymetry used to estimate wave breaking conditions.

Authors

I am an author on this paper
Click your name to claim this paper and add it to your profile.

Reviews

Primary Rating

4.7
Not enough ratings

Secondary Ratings

Novelty
-
Significance
-
Scientific rigor
-
Rate this paper

Recommended

No Data Available
No Data Available