4.3 Article

Vaccinium myrtillus L. extract associated with octocrylene, bisoctrizole, and titanium dioxide: in vitro and in vivo tests to evaluate safety and efficacy

Journal

JOURNAL OF COSMETIC DERMATOLOGY
Volume 21, Issue 10, Pages 4765-4774

Publisher

WILEY
DOI: 10.1111/jocd.14779

Keywords

bioactive photoprotection; claim substantiation; emulsions; safety testing; sunscreen; Vaccinium myrtillus L

Categories

Funding

  1. Fundacao de Amparo a Pesquisa do Estado de Sao Paulo [2019/16169-0]
  2. Conselho Nacional de Desenvolvimento Cientifico e Tecnologico [305250/2019-1]
  3. Coordenacao de Aperfeicoamento de Pessoal de Nivel Superior [001]

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This study evaluated the sun protection factor, photostability, and safety of sunscreen samples containing Vaccinium myrtillus L. extract. The results showed that the extract reduced the SPF of the sunscreen, but the samples remained photostable and safe. Further research is needed to understand the unexpected effects of the extract on photoprotection.
Objective The harmful effects induced by ultraviolet exposition and the significant increment in skin cancer diagnosis confirm the necessity to develop effective and safe sunscreens. Limited efficacy and cutaneous adverse reactions of traditional formulations drove the incorporation of natural extracts into multifunctional sunscreens. Vaccinium myrtillus L. extract (VME), that contains anthocyanins and flavonoids, is a potential candidate for such systems. Methods Considering that, we performed in vitro and in vivo tests to evaluate the sun protection factor (SPF), photostability, and safety of sunscreen samples containing VME. Results As main results, the SPF was reduced in both in vitro and in vivo evaluation in the presence of VME; nonetheless, the samples were photostable and safe. Conclusion Further investigation is required to better understand the unexpected effects of VME over photoprotection, decreasing the SPF value. As a conclusion, even with interesting findings, we highlight the importance of case-by-case investigations to develop multifunctional bioactive sunscreens.

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