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Current Views on Noninvasive in vivo Determination of Physiological Parameters of the Stratum Corneum Using Confocal Raman Microspectroscopy

Journal

SKIN PHARMACOLOGY AND PHYSIOLOGY
Volume 35, Issue 3, Pages 125-136

Publisher

KARGER
DOI: 10.1159/000521416

Keywords

Skin barrier function; Intercellular lipids; Keratin; Water mobility; Skin hydration

Funding

  1. Foundation for Skin Physiology of the Donor Association for German Science and Humanities
  2. German Academic Exchange Service (DAAD)

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Confocal Raman microspectroscopy is commonly used for noninvasive analysis of skin components and physiological parameters of the stratum corneum, and this paper summarizes recent results in this field.
Confocal Raman microspectroscopy is widely used in dermatology and cosmetology for analysis of the concentration of skin components (lipids, natural moisturizing factor molecules, water) and the penetration depth of cosmetic/medical formulations in the human stratum corneum (SC) in vivo. In recent years, it was shown that confocal Raman microspectroscopy can also be used for noninvasive in vivo depth-dependent determination of the physiological parameters of the SC, such as lamellar and lateral organization of intercellular lipids (ICLs), folding properties of keratin, water mobility, and hydrogen bonding states. The results showed that the strongest skin barrier function, which is primarily manifested by the orthorhombic organization of ICLs, is provided at approximate to 20-40% SC depth, which is related to the maximal bonding state of water with surrounding components in the SC. The secondary and tertiary structures of keratin determine water binding in the SC, which is depth-dependent. This paper shows the technical possibility and advantage of confocal Raman microspectroscopy in noninvasive investigation of the skin and summarizes recent results on in vivo investigation of the human SC. (C) 2022 S. Karger AG, Basel

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