Skin hydration as a tool to control the distribution and molecular effects of intermediate polarity compounds in intact stratum corneum

The barrier function of the skin is mainly assured by its outermost layer, stratum corneum (SC), which consists of dead keratin-filled cells embedded in a lipid matrix. The skin is daily exposed to an environment with changing conditions in terms of hydration and different chemicals. Here we investigate how a molecule that has reasonable solubility in both hydrophobic and hydrophilic environments can be directed to certain regions in SC by changing the skin hydration. We use 1,2,3-trimethoxy propane (TMP) as a model substance and solid-state NMR on natural abundance C-13 to obtain atomically resolved information on the molecular dynamics of TMP as well as SC lipid and protein components at varying hydration conditions. Upon dehydration, TMP redistributes from the hydrophilic corneocytes to the hydrophobic SC lipid regions. In this way, TMP can act to prevent the fluid-solid lipid transition in drying conditions and be present in the corneocytes in more humid conditions. Hydration can thereby be used as a switch to control the location and action of TMP or similar compounds in complex materials like SC. The general principles described here can also have impact on other applications including lipid-based formulations in food, drug delivery and cosmetics. (C) 2021 The Authors. Published by Elsevier Inc.

Automated summary

By altering the hydration of the skin, molecules with reasonable solubility in both hydrophobic and hydrophilic environments can be directed to specific regions in the stratum corneum (SC), affecting their distribution and behavior in varying hydration conditions. Hydration serves as a switch to control the location and action of molecules in complex materials like SC, impacting fluid-solid lipid transitions in drying conditions.