Surf Zone Waves at the Onset of Breaking: 2. Predicting Breaking and Breaker Type

This is the second of a two-part series concerning remote observation and wave-by-wave analysis of the onset of breaking for spilling and plunging waves in the surf zone. Nearshore phase-averaged and phase-resolving wave models parameterize and directly simulate wave breaking and require realistic critical values of key wave parameters, such as the depth-limited breaking index gamma, steepness, or phase speed to initialize wave breaking. Using LIDAR line-scans and infrared imagery, we observe over 1,600 breaking waves at the US Army Corps of Engineers Field Research Facility (FRF) in Duck, NC, and examine these parameters on a wave-by-wave basis at the onset of breaking for 413 spilling and 111 plunging waves. We find that gamma is maximum near the onset of breaking at values consistent with those previously observed at the FRF, but that gamma for plunging waves (0.73 <= gamma(P) <= 0.81) is greater than gamma for spilling waves (0.63 <= gamma(S) <= 0.71). Direct estimates of wave face slope are maximum at the onset of breaking, approximately 22 degrees for spilling and 30 degrees for plunging waves. Using the relationship between gamma and wave face slope, we develop a threshold for the onset of breaking that is a linear function of the two parameters. Wave face slope and gamma are further used together to quantify whether a spilling- or plunging-type breaker is more likely. We test the Miche steepness limit on our depth-limited breaking data and find it correctly predicts only 10% of the plunging breakers and none of the spilling breakers in the surf zone.

Automated summary

This study focuses on remote observation and wave-by-wave analysis of spilling and plunging waves breaking, finding differences in key parameters between the two types of breaking waves. Additionally, wave face slope and gamma are identified as useful indicators for determining the type of wave breaking.