Bacterial Cellulose-Carboxymethyl Cellulose (BC:CMC) dry formulation as stabilizer and texturizing agent for surfactant-free cosmetic formulations

Generic cosmetic creams (oil-in-water emulsions) were prepared using dry Bacterial Cellulose and Carboxymethyl Cellulose (BC:CMC) to study the possibility of partially or completely replacing surfactants, while ensuring a long-term stability and the required organoleptic characteristics. BC:CMC was benchmarked against two hydrocolloidal Avicel products (PC-591 and PC-611), commonly used as thickeners and stabilizing aids in cosmetics production. The emulsions were then characterized regarding storage stability, rheology, texture and microscopic features. The full replacement of 5.5 % surfactants with only 0.75 % BC:CMC consistently showed similar results to those obtained with surfactants, namely concerning viscosity and texture. Although producing emulsions with larger oil droplets, BC:CMC provided for a very effective stabilization through a Pickering effect and by structuring the continuous phase. The more effective Avicel tested (PC-591) required a higher concentration (1.5 %) to achieve similar rheological profile but was ineffective in stabilizing the oil phase in a surfactant-free formulation with the adopted protocol. By replacing surfactants, dry BC:CMC matches a strong market need since both end users and manufacturers increasingly seek natural ingredients for cosmetic formulations.

Automated summary

The study showed that dry Bacterial Cellulose and Carboxymethyl Cellulose can partially or completely replace surfactants in cosmetic creams, providing long-term stability and desired properties. Compared to other hydrocolloidal products, BC:CMC demonstrated superior performance in stabilizing and enhancing the rheological profile of the emulsions.