4.2 Article

Organic cotton fabric dyed with dyer's oak and barberry dye by microwave irradiation and conventional methods

Journal

INDUSTRIA TEXTILA
Volume 72, Issue 1, Pages 30-38

Publisher

INST NATL CERCETARE-DEZVOLTARE TEXTILE PIELARIE-BUCURESTI
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.01.1755

Keywords

microwave dyeing; organic cotton; natural dye; HPLC-DAD; SEM-EDX; fastness

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In this study, organic cotton fabrics were dyed with barberry, dyer's oak, and a combination of both using microwave irradiation and conventional methods. The analyses showed that microwave irradiation is more suitable than conventional dyeing methods in terms of color properties, time saving, and cost effectiveness.
In this work, organic cotton fabrics were dyed using barberry (Berberis vulgaris L.), dyer's oak (Quercus infectoria Olivier) and dyer's oak + barberry (Quercus infectoria Olivier + Berberis vulgaris L.) by microwave irradiation and conventional dyeing methods. They were used in equal percentages. The dyed fabrics were analyzed by different analytical and technical methods. Colouring compounds were analyzed in the dyed fabrics, dye extractions (before dyeing bath and after dyeing bath) by High Performance Liquid Chromatography with Diode Array Detector (HPLC-DAD). Identified coloring compounds based on the dyestuff analysis were berberine, berberine derivative, phenolic acid, ellagic acid, ellegic acid derivatives, gallic acid and gallic acid derivative. Colour characteristics of all the dyed fabrics were measured by CIEL*a*b* spectrophotometer and pH values were determined by surface-pH meter. Scanning Electron Microscopy equipped with Energy Dispersive X-ray Spectrometer (SEM-EDX) was used for imaging and elemental analysis of the surfaces of the dyed organic cotton fabrics. The colouristic and colour fastness properties of the dyed fabrics were investigated and compared with each other. No damage was observed in the fabrics dyed by the microwave and conventional dyeing methods. Almost the same colour yields were obtained in both dyeings using different processing times. According to the analyses and test results, microwave irradiation method is very eligible compared to conventional dyeing methods, considering coloristic properties of dyed fabrics, time saving and the cost effectiveness wise.

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