4.2 Review

Challenges and effective routes for formulating and delivery of epidermal growth factors in skin care

Journal

INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
Volume 43, Issue 2, Pages 123-130

Publisher

WILEY
DOI: 10.1111/ics.12685

Keywords

epidermal growth factor; anti-ageing; formulation; emulsion; delivery; transdermal

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Epidermal growth factors have shown promising results in skincare treatments, but their incorporation into skincare formulations is hindered by challenges such as low transdermal delivery efficacy, material interactions, and protein instability. Optimizing the stability and synergy of growth factor products is crucial for enhancing skincare effects. New drug delivery systems are being explored to overcome the challenges of topical growth factor treatment, emphasizing the importance of considering all components in a formulation simultaneously for engineering an optimal cosmeceutical product.
Epidermal growth factors are important morphogenetic proteins that instruct cell behaviour. They have many inferred applications within regenerative medicine and have shown promising results in skincare treatments. Many growth factors are known to have skin anti-ageing benefits along with further potential in resolving scarring, acne and other skin disorders. Incorporation of these biologics into skincare formulations has been greatly hindered by low transdermal delivery efficacy, intricate material interactions and protein instability - especially within common cosmetic emulsions. This review explores the cosmeceutical capability of growth factors in skin care, current understandings of constituent interactions and advantageous delivery approaches for more effective topical delivery. The first section highlights the influences growth factor product formulation has on stability and synergy. Current understandings of growth factor formulating techniques in cosmetic products is limited, and the performance of other protein structures is an adequate point of reference. The second section examines emerging drug delivery systems to overcome the challenges of topical growth factor treatment. It is important to consider the coaction and durability of all components in a formulation simultaneously: active ingredients, product format and delivery vehicle, in order to engineer an optimal cosmeceutical product.

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