4.5 Article

Benign Felt-proofing of Wool Fibers Using a Keratinolytic Thermophilic Alkaline Protease

Journal

JOURNAL OF NATURAL FIBERS
Volume 19, Issue 10, Pages 3697-3709

Publisher

TAYLOR & FRANCIS INC
DOI: 10.1080/15440478.2020.1848721

Keywords

Wool; thermophilic protease; keratinolytic activity; scales; felting; dyeing

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This study aimed to improve the felting resistance and dyeability of wool using microbial protease. Different treatment conditions were investigated to study their effects on wool's physical and chemical properties. The results showed that the enzymatic modification of wool significantly enhanced its felting resistance and dyeability without adverse effects on its inherent properties.
Felting shrinkage of wool is a major problem which has negative impacts on its performance attributes. Traditional chemical methods used for shrink-resist finishing are suffering from some drawbacks. Therefore, this work aimed at the utilization of microbial protease in wet processing of wool. The bacterial strain Bacillus licheniformis ALW1 produced 52.1 U/mL enzyme activity that was thermophilic with optimum activity at pH 9. Additionally, the enzyme possessed a keratinolytic activity of 4.1 U/mL, suggesting its applicability in wool processing. Therefore, the effects of different treatment conditions; Viz. concentration of the enzyme, temperature, treatment period and pH on some of the physical and chemical characteristics of wool were studied. The felting shrinkage of wool fibers was determined using the Aachener 3-D felting machine. The influence of the enzymatic modification of wool on its dyeability with anionic dye was assessed. Chemical, physical, and mechanical properties of treated samples were evaluated using amino acid analysis, alkali solubility, Fourier Transform Infrared spectroscopy, whiteness index, and tensile properties. Scanning electron microscopy was applied for the examination of wool fibers' surface. The results proved that the modification of wool fibers with the produced enzyme highly improved their felting resistance and dyeability with acid dye without adverse effects on its inherent properties.

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