4.7 Article

Advances in swash-zone research: Small-scale hydrodynamic and sediment transport processes

Journal

COASTAL ENGINEERING
Volume 115, Issue -, Pages 8-25

Publisher

ELSEVIER
DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2015.10.008

Keywords

Foreshore; Morphology; Sediment transport; Shear stress; Swath-zone dynamics; Turbulence

Funding

  1. National Science Foundation [OCE-0845004, OCE-1332703]
  2. University of Delaware
  3. Mexican National Council of Science and Technology [CoNACyT- 490080]
  4. Fulbright-Garcia Robles grant
  5. Division Of Ocean Sciences
  6. Directorate For Geosciences [1332872] Funding Source: National Science Foundation

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Extensive research efforts in the last decade have improved knowledge of swash-zone processes. This paper reviews and synthesizes from 2004 onward the research advances of small-scale hydrodynamics and sediment transport processes considering field, laboratory and numerical modeling efforts. Swash-zone hydrodynamics are examined by means of shoreline motions, fluid velocities, pressure gradients, flow structure, bed shear stress, friction coefficients and turbulence. Subsequently, advances related to sediment transport mechanisms and morphological changes are described. Detailed descriptions of measuring techniques, novel findings, and the strengths and weaknesses of the different approaches are discussed. The review also acknowledges the major advances in the development of instrumentation to collect highly resolved flow and sediment concentration measurements in direct proximity of the bed and the experimental framework for analyzing local dynamics on a wave-by-wave time scale (e.g., dam break). (C) 2015 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

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