4.3 Review

In vivo SPF from multifunctional sunscreen systems developed with natural compounds-A review

Journal

JOURNAL OF COSMETIC DERMATOLOGY
Volume 20, Issue 3, Pages 729-737

Publisher

WILEY
DOI: 10.1111/jocd.13609

Keywords

botanical extracts; in vivo SPF; natural compounds; sunscreens

Categories

Funding

  1. Conselho Nacional de Desenvolvimento Cientifico e Tecnologico [305250/2019-1]
  2. Fundacao de Amparo a Pesquisa do Estado de Sao Paulo [2019/16169-0]
  3. Coordenacao de Aperfeicoamento de Pessoal de Nivel Superior [001]
  4. Programa Nacional de Pos-Doutorado (PNPD)

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This review summarized clinical studies on sunscreens with natural compounds, discussing their action mechanisms and potential to enhance sun protection efficacy.
Background The use of sunscreens is mandatory, especially in countries with high ultraviolet (UV) incidence. In consequence, there has been a growing interest in using compounds from natural sources to develop new multifunctional products that protect human skin from the consequences of UV exposition. Even though there are in vitro methods to determine anti-UV efficacy, it is still required to test photoprotection activity on human skin to validate product performance. Aim and Methods In this review, we summarized all reported clinical studies about sun protection factor (SPF) measurements of sunscreens with natural compounds. We also discussed the probable action mechanism of those actives. Results Herein, we provided an overview on recent studies concerning photoprotection activity of compounds from natural sources, for example, rutin, ferulic acid, caffeine, shea butter, and plant extracts, mainly presented in sunscreen systems with efficacy clinically established by SPF. Conclusion Our review suggested that even when the in vivo SPF evaluation has inherent difficulties, it is essential to assure the real efficacy of sunscreens. Furthermore, the incorporation of natural compounds could enhance the in vivo SPF values of such sunscreens by different mechanisms. Finally, some compounds derived from natural resources with skin benefits could be used as green/natural UV filters that provide broad-spectrum sunscreens with further upgrading of the multifunctional dermocosmetic formulation to enhance aesthetics and even skin health.

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