4.6 Article

Valorization of Natural Dyes Extracted from Mugwort Leaves (Folium artemisiae argyi) for Wool Fabric Dyeing: Optimization of Extraction and Dyeing Processes with Simultaneous Coloration and Biofunctionalization

Journal

ACS SUSTAINABLE CHEMISTRY & ENGINEERING
Volume 8, Issue 7, Pages 2822-2834

Publisher

AMER CHEMICAL SOC
DOI: 10.1021/acssuschemeng.9b06928

Keywords

natural dyes; extraction; wool dyeing; UV protection; antioxidant; antibacterial

Funding

  1. Fundamental Research Funds for the Central Universities [XDJK2020CO25]
  2. China Southwest University Grant Scheme [SWU116040]
  3. Southwest University Chongqing, China

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Folium artemisiae argyi (FAA) leaves have a long history of usage as a food colorant throughout China, but their usage as a biocolorant for textile substrates has not been fully exploited yet. The present research focused on the extraction of functional components of FAA leaves and their applications for simultaneous coloration and biofunctionalization of wool fabrics. Examination of different extracting solvents (ethanol/water combinations); identification and stability of color components using UV-vis, FT-IR, TG, and DTG; and examination of dyeing methods were successfully carried out during the course of this work. Additionally, the dyes extracted in different solvent systems were subjected to total phenolic and flavonoid content analysis and expressed as gallic acid and catechin equivalents, respectively. The different solvent extracts (50% aqueous ethanol in conjunction with small amounts of acid and alkali) gave the maximum biocolorant yield at 80 degrees C for 60 min. Wool fabrics dyed in different solvent systems gave different colors with good washing fastness. The inadequate fastness characteristics were evidently ameliorated by premordanting with Fe2+ and Al3+ salts. An adequate amount of FAA leaf extract on wool fabrics exhibited good UV protection, antibacterial, and antioxidant behaviors. Premordanting enhanced UV protection, antibacterial, and antioxidant behaviors of dyed wool fabrics. Wool fabrics treated with FAA leaf extracts exhibited diverse color variations (such as green color with alum mordant) and proved to be greatly promising for industrial application as a source of natural biocolorants, as well as a value-adding application for the plant in addition to its normal usage as a food colorant.

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