4.5 Article

Sustainability of Organic Cotton Fabric Dyeing with a Natural Dye (Gallnut) and Analysis by Multi-technique Approach

Journal

JOURNAL OF NATURAL FIBERS
Volume 18, Issue 8, Pages 1107-1118

Publisher

TAYLOR & FRANCIS INC
DOI: 10.1080/15440478.2019.1687064

Keywords

Organic cotton; gallnut; jet dyeing; sustainable natural dyeing; antimicrobial activity; nontoxic textiles

Funding

  1. TUBITAK (The Scientific and Technological Resource Council of Turkey) [7150407]
  2. Turkish Cultural Foundation (TCF)

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This study involved dyeing six organic cotton interlock knitting fabrics with gallnut, four of which were post-treated with FeSO4.7H(2)O. Various analytical and technical methods were used to analyze the dyed fabrics. Results showed good dyeing effects, strong fastness properties, and high antimicrobial efficacy against gram-positive bacteria.
In this study, six organic cotton interlock knitting fabric were dyed using gallnut (Quercus infectoria Olivier) four of them were treated with FeSO4.7H(2)O as post-mordant. The dyed fabrics were analyzed by different analytical and technical methods such as CIEL*a*b*, surface-pH meter, HPLC-DAD, SEM-EDX, FTIR, fastness and antimicrobial tests. Identified dyestuffs with HPLC-DAD were gallic acid, ellagic acid, and their derivatives. In the all dyed fabrics, the detected elements with SEM-EDX are oxygen, silicon, calcium, and sodium. The iron element was found in four dyeings using post mordant. The highest iron percentage are dyeings with a dyeing time of 30 min. The fastness results were good in general. The test of rubbing fastness was 4-5 in dry and the lowest 3 in wet. Washing fastness was found as 4-5 for all fabrics. The antimicrobial test was also carried out against gram-positive bacterium. The results of antimicrobial test against gram-positive bacterium were determined above 91%. Lastly, the dyed fabrics were analyzed by FTIR for determination of the interaction among dye, mordant metal, and cotton fabric. All the dyeings were initially carried out under laboratory conditions, and then applied to jet dyeing machine as protative and sustainable at large scale.

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