Journal
JOURNAL OF FLUID MECHANICS
Volume 878, Issue -, Pages 481-501Publisher
CAMBRIDGE UNIV PRESS
DOI: 10.1017/jfm.2019.618
Keywords
surface gravity waves; wave breaking; wave-structure interactions
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Funding
- Science Foundation Ireland (SFI) under the research project 'Understanding Extreme Nearshore Wave Events through Studies of Coastal Boulder Transport' [14/US/E3111]
- Science Foundation Ireland (SFI) [14/US/E3111] Funding Source: Science Foundation Ireland (SFI)
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Recent modelling work has shown that abrupt bathymetric transitions can produce dramatic amplifications of long waves, under the influence of both nonlinearity and dispersion. Here, the evolution of wave packets towards a vertical wall over a varying bathymetry is investigated with a one-dimensional conformal-mapping spectral code. In this system, wave breaking, runup and reflection, wave interference and bathymetric effects are highlighted. Wave breaking is examined with respect to geometric, kinematic and energetic conditions, with consistent results. The breaking strength is characterized for spilling and plunging based on initial wave period and amplitude. Non-breaking waves are amplified by reflection, interference and the bathymetry leading to large runups. In a typical example inspired by a real-world bathymetry, the maximum runup amplification approaches a factor of 12 - large enough for a 3 m amplitude wave to overtop a 30 m cliff.
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