Skin Filling and Firming Activity of a Hyaluronic Acid Inducing Synthetic Tripeptide

Aging of skin manifests in loss of volume and firming due to degradation of extracellular matrix components such as collagen and hyaluronic acid leading to wrinkling and sagging. To counteract loss of facial volume and regain firmness, fillers like hyaluronic acid (HA) are commonplace in cosmetic dermatology. We developed a synthetic tripeptide tetradecyl aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric acid urea trifluoroacetate with proven hyaluronic acid stimulating activity in vitro. This study investigated the filling and firming activity of the tripeptide. In vitro: Microtissue technology was used to construct spherical 3D-skin equivalents. These were exposed to a tripeptide solution and content of hyaluronic acid and its receptor CD44 were assessed using histological techniques. Skin tissue culture was used to assess HA expression ex vivo. A placebo controlled, randomized, in parallel groups study to assess the firming, filling, and moisturizing activity of the peptide product was designed. We recruited 30 female Caucasian volunteers age 40 to 60 per group. Product application was twice daily for 29 days. Skin volume, deformation and moisturization were measured. HA and CD44 content in skin were increased in vitro and ex vivo. In vivo, skin firming was improved by a significant decrease in cheek deformation, a significantly restored skin volume below the eyes, and significantly improved skin hydration as measured on the cheekbone. We show evidence that the tripeptide tetradecyl-diaminobutyroylvalyldiaminobutyric urea trifluoroacetate restores facial skin volume by stimulating HA synthesis. These results underline the anti-aging activity of this synthetic tripeptide.